Welding table thickness| Off-Topic Discussion forum |

I *believe* hot vs cold won't make a big difference, though the cold working may contribute a little.

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I think at 3/8, depending on how big it is, a lot of it will come down to the structure it's attached to.

Mine's about 2' x 4', 1/4" plate that wasn't entirely flat, but is much flatter now that it's welded to a 2" x 3" (IIRC) 0.125-wall apron that runs between the legs.

What you mean by "stay flat" is also a good question. What are you going to do to it that it needs to fight through to stay flat? Once 1/8" is flat, it'll stay pretty flat if you're not using it as a jig...

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Note also the Certiflat type tables that are something like 3/16", but have a grid of webbing on the bottom that provides the rigidity. So, that's sort of the second data point for doing something other than relying on having a plate heavy enough to do all the work.

Take a straight edge with you, depending on how they cut it, some times it will be warped from the cut. Tell them you want it flat enough to weld on. Your frame can take some warp out of a piece but the better it is to begin with the happier you will be. I'm using 1/4" 4'x8' on a 2"x4" 11 gauge tube frame. Flat to begin with and just a few 1" welds to hold it to the frame. Later if need be I can shim to straighten it if it becomes necessary. Some of the shears will put a curve in the off cut piece, so if you get the cutoff piece it's curved.

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